The way it was: Turkish delights before dinner
Mian Ijaz Ul
Hassan
In my village I often see people riding a bicycle on a frosty morning, with
their head and torsos wrapped in a blanket, paddling away in beach slippers. The
hairy legs are virtually naked and other essential endowments are exposed to
piercing drafts, because the dhoti has been tucked up to keep it clear of the
greasy bicycle chain
They strode in to the beat of marshal music, instantly seizing the audience with
their measured gait. The awesome Mongol hordes could not have made a stronger
impact when riding into Baghdad. The Turkish ambassador to Pakistan said Lahore
had been conquered again. Tracing history through the Mughals he reminded the
dazed audience that it was the second time the Turks were in the Lahore Fort.
Fortunately, this time there were no bloody arguments. Everyone present at the
Shahi Qila willingly surrendered to the ‘Timeless Heritage’ from the shores
of Bosphorus, the mesmerising charm of the ‘supermodels’ from Turkey.
The models presented an endless array of costumes designed by Madam Zubal
Yorgancioghu, popularly, and understandably, known as Madam Zee. Her creations
are inspired by Ottoman and Turk apparel and motifs and the embroidered patterns
and apparel span the various periods through which Turkey has progressed, from
the days of the Ottoman sultans to the modern times. Her inspiration draws upon
the folk arts of Anatolia, which was a melting pot of many civilisations, as
well as the Harem at Topkapi, where “most exceptional, powerful, ambitious and
beautiful women resided wearing long silk dresses embroidered with gold and
silver...ruling by letting be ruled.” Most women today just like to rule
without letting anyone rule them. What a pity!
The evening was a magical display of femininity adorned with majestic costumes.
Turkish embroidery and patterns are vivacious in comparison with the
aesthetically restrained Iranian handiwork. Iranian crafts are impeccable to a
degree where they become cold. When the Turkish and Persian arts and crafts
mingled with the ways of our region, a synthesis was achieved that expressed
richer aesthetics, warmth and diversity. The Turkish ambassador of course
rightly pointed out that we in South Asia have a longstanding association with
Anatolia and Central Asia. After the show he asked the audience, “Now you know
from where you got your Shalwar!” Actually we have inherited and accepted many
other influences from the Turks, besides the baggy trousers and the hukkah,
which the ambassador forgot to mention. We can see Turkish influences in
painting, music (many of our raags have Turkic origin), dance (Kathak is an
example), architecture (the arch and the dome) and other arts and crafts,
including of course the state administration.
But Turkish delights for me go a long way back, much before the stunning Turkish
ladies forced us into voluntary submission through their aesthetic invasion. I
have admired the Turks since my grandfather narrated to me the events of the
1915 Battle of Gallipoli where Attaturk, leading the Turkish forces, decimated
the allied forces and sank the entire invading British Fleet. However several
years later, in the winter of 1964, when I crossed over from Greece to Turkey,
it was not without some anxiety. My wife and I, and my parents who were also
travelling with us from London, stood in a queue at the Turkish border. Tired,
cold and fatigued we waited for our turn to present the passports, which we held
in our hand. The rather plump young immigration officer, sitting out in the cold
was not impressed by the long queue and worked at his own leisure. Skimming
through passports was taking longer than it would take to get a punctured tire
fixed. None of us was suitably clad for the low temperatures. (Actually, have
you ever seen a Pakistani suitably clad for winter?) I have seen our ladies in
freezing temperatures wearing Hawaii chappals! In my village I often see people
riding a cycle on a frosty morning, with their head and torsos wrapped in a
blanket, paddling away in beach slippers. The hairy legs are virtually naked and
other essential endowments are exposed to piercing drafts, because the dhoti has
been tucked up to keep it clear of the greasy cycle chain. But let’s not
quibble too much on that score; one cannot be too careful in a rural landscape.
Here’s a digression but I can’t resist telling you this. It was several
years ago, in autumn (or as the Americans say, the fall), I was happily driving
along on a dirt road along the Gugera canal not far from Okara, when I sighted a
resourceful country gentleman with a charpoi balanced on his head, cycling in my
direction. As soon as he saw the car approach him, I noticed he became a little
unsteady. Knowing what my country brother was capable of accomplishing, I veered
the car to the very edge of the road and turned off the engine. There was a
steep slope beyond; otherwise I would have given the entire road to him. In
order not to disturb him in any way, I switched off the engine and looked away
from the approaching danger pretending to be engaged in counting leaves of a
tree. By the time my friend had come within a few yards, he became visibly
agitated. Everything had gone awry. The charpoi was out of balance; the cycle
was out of control. Pulling and pushing the handle with one hand would not
steady it. He found the best course open to him to save himself was to jump onto
the car’s bonnet, with the bed on his head. The cycle unceremoniously
abandoned in that process followed him and collapsed after colliding with the
front-grill. You may be amused? But I was not, at least not at the time. I
suppose it was my fault. I should not have been there in the first place or
should have demonstrated a better presence of mind by jumping into the canal,
the moment I sighted him.
To be fair every person is armed differently. It is amazing to see the ease with
which a farmer can work with his tools. How easily he can climb tall trees and
prune branches. Give him a cup resting on a saucer and he freezes. He will not
be able to move a step without making rattling sounds; spilling more than half
by the time he reaches the person who was to be its beneficiary. Very funny
isn’t it? Try asking a smart city-bred to harness a horse, sit for five
minutes on his haunches, milking a cow or killing a snake or even distinguishing
one plant from another. If he is sensible he will not take up the challenge;
foolishly, if he does, he will certainly make an ass of himself.
But getting back to the Turkish border. After a while I noticed the podgy young
custom officer who looked like one of our pampered young Butts from Royal Park,
first wave at us and then zealously summon us to come forward. As we hesitantly
approached, he gestured to the people at the head of the queue to step back —
to step well back. Apparently he had sighted our green passport. To our complete
and unexpected surprise he raised one of our passports to his lips and
effusively kissed it and then asked, ‘Pakistani?’ I was quite baffled but
responded with a meek smile, ‘yes!’ At which he stamped our passports in
quick succession, and then rose from his chair making a grand gesture for us to
enter. What were we waiting for? He seemed to ask, as though Turkey was our own.
I am told things are a little different now. It will be thirty years this
December, but the memory of our welcome into Turkey makes my pulse run faster
even now. It is amazing what an individual can achieve in a moment, that states
sometimes cannot gain in a decade. I don’t have a sweet tooth but Turkish
Delights? Any time!
Prof Ijaz-ul-Hassan is a painter, author and a political activist